Shot at a South Coast ex-secret Slab, this now hot-spot of bodyboarding attention is rightfully intriguing bodyboarders from the entire East Coast (it would seem) who come to see her and flirt with her dredging barrels and steppy shallow ledge.
I remember making the early-morning mission to go, knowing it would be good and being very happy to get up close and in the mix. My first swim with my then new water set-up got some results and had me very excited about shooting some more and being up close with such good riders in pretty solid conditions was amazing. I swam for two and a half hours and when I swam in I was on the verge of drowning I was so exhausted.
If you bodyboard or even surf and you don't ever get up with the sun and drive to find something different then you are failing yourself in a massive way. Dawn Patrols are micro-holidays and surf-trips you can fit in to a Saturday morning and they will change your life.
Putting yourself out of your comfort zone is never a bad thing.
Anyway, back to Stephen and not shooting enough,
I am hoping to rectify that in the near future, possibly with a trip North of the border to explore some tall tales of firing, previously unheard of waves, drifting back via feral travellers of dubious character.
Just the kind of thing we all lust after day in and day out, eyes burning as we stare in to the LED glare of our desk-jobs and pore over every media site we can looking at the people we wish we were scoring around the world.
We all need to get out there, and that includes me.
My boss has just told me I can leave early and that's all the excuse I need.
14:15pm on a Friday? Bonus!
cool
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